The Plan (Days 123-127) - The Sahara

This isn’t my first trip to the Sahara. It’s pretty big and if you’ve been to North Africa you will probably have come across it and I’ve been to Tunisia. It is entirely possible to visit Tunisia without leaving the coast, many people do, but in order to inject a little bit of culture into what was everyone’s first trip to the Dark Continent my family signed up for a bus tour.

At this point I should probably explain that when my family goes abroad it was rarely just my mum, dad, brother, sister and I. Oh no, we’re talking aunts, uncles, cousins, the whole shebang. In Tunisia there were 12 of us, when we go skiing next year there will be 13 (Now-husband being the only addition but it could have been more. We didn’t go with them last year but my sister’s fiancé did. He won’t be joining us this year due to his incompatibility with skiing. There was also talk of more cousins and a few more girlfriends but they decided against it!).

Returning to the bus tour, my memories are fairly favourable. We saw the spot in the Sahara where they filmed Star Wars (although at the time I’d never seen the film so it meant nothing to me!), we visited a traditional house, we rode on a camel and I got to read a lot of my book on the coach. I also remember that the grown ups were very annoyed because the guy who sold us the tour failed to explain there would be about 8 hours on the coach and that therefore the tour was probably not particularly suitable for five children aged 6-13 (I was 13).

This has not really much to do with anything other than to say that although I have seen the Sahara before, I don’t think I appreciated it at all. I don’t remember it looking anything like it does in films (including Star Wars) and I don’t even remember there being that much sand.

So to improve upon these memories I am going to attempt to visit the Sahara from the Moroccan side. This is easier said than done as roads and transport is intermittent at best. I may have to hire a guide or go on an organised tour from Marrakech. Not really what I want but as long as I get to see some really big sand dunes and ride a camel I’ll cope.
The Sahara proper doesn’t really begin until you think you been travelling past nothing but sand for several hours. Merzuga is my ideal destination because from here you can travel on a camel for a couple of hours and watch the sunrise or sunset over nothing but dunes. Picture this, standing with your back to the sunset looking over the unimaginable immensity of the Sahara desert. Before you are 9 million square kilometres of sand. The size of it is simply inconceivable, mind-blowing.

It won’t be a relaxing journey to say the least. A sweaty car followed by the most uncomfortable mode of transport man has yet come across, the camel. Then the night spent in a tent in the desert will be freezing and I do not do well in the cold. Not to mention the sand which will find its way into every part of me and all my worldly goods. But I can honestly say I think it will be worth it.

I think my romantic notions of the Sahara might have something to do with this story.

To be Continued...
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The Plan (Days 120-123) - The High Atlas Mountains

Morocco is a land of sea, sand and snow. Other than the occasional glimpse of the coast and a lot of dust I probably will not have seen very much of this on my journey through the country so far. With luck my next destination, a side trip from Marrakech, will change this.

The High Atlas Mountains form a dramatic backdrop to the cityscape of Marrakech. In my imagination it is much the same as Mount Fuji presiding over Tokyo, only visible on clear days from tall buildings but always there in the collective consciousness of the city. I could be wrong of course, they may always be visible and domineering or never much thought of, it is another thing I look forward to finding out one day.

A hotel 60km from Marrakech caught my eye some time ago and my subsequent investigations have pretty much left me open mouthed at the prospect of visiting it one day. The hotel is the Kasbah Du Toubkal and if you don’t understand what I mean from my inadequate description just check out the pictures on the website. I could spend days looking at those views.

At this striking converted Kasbah the emphasis is on time-honoured Berber hospitality rather than the usual hotel services. Rooms range from luxury suites to standard hotel rooms to more traditional Berber dorm-style rooms. The traditional rooms sleep three comfortably but if there are more in your party you can borrow a sleeping bag and sleep out on the roof terrace. Even if there was a bed free I’d be tempted to sleep outside anyway just to wake up to the view of those stunning snow-caped mountains.

So there you have it, I’ve ticked off snow from my Morocco experience list, and in style too! Next stop, the Sahara for a serious amount of sand.

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This interesting link is about the hotel.

The Plan (Days 114-120) - Marrakech

I thought that Marrakech would be much easier to write about than the other places I have visited recently on my imaginary journey. In fact I wrote:

“However much I might love to visit non-tourist places, from a writing perspective it’s a relief to be in Marrakech. Meknes, Rabat and Casablanca have been difficult and my output slow to say the least!”

But Marrakech was not easy to write about. That vibrant North African city that exists in all our imaginations began to sound monotonous and not unlike the other Moroccan cities I had already described. Herein lies the problem with writing about places I have never visited, I cannot capture the spirit of a place without actually being there, no matter how alive and well it is in my imagination. If I was a writer of fiction I would find a way to bridge the gap between imagination and bringing something to life on the page. But I am not so instead I present to you my laboured attempt to breathe life into Marrakech.

As with other towns in Morocco the central tourist attraction in Marrakech is the medina. The central square, called Djemaa el Fna, is at the heart of the medina. During the day it’s a good place for a mint tea in a rooftop café but come the evening it transforms into and exotic place with of snake charmers, musicians and various other Moroccan entertainments. It is a place that, with a good book and a constant supply of tea, I could easily spend a whole day.

For the tourist in me, Marrakech has many attractions. The most ancient sight I definitely plan to visit is the spectacular Koutoubia Mosque, the largest in Marrakech, which looks over the Djemma el Fna square in the medina. Some interesting legends surround the four copper globes that crown the tower. It is believed they were once pure gold. The Mosque dates back to the 12th century so it has had many years to acquire a history and stories and I’m a sucker for a good legend.

The Saadian tombs date from the late 16th century and hold the remains of around 60 of the Saadi dynasty. Outside the tombs are gardens and the graves of servants and attendants. I’ve never taken much interest in tombs, graveyards and memorials before. Partly because they give me the creeps and partly due to many many school trips to churches and churchyards as a child making them seem dull places. But I’m willing to put aside these preconceptions for any new experience on this trip.

More modern still is the 19th century place and gardens, Bahia Palace. The Palace reflects the taste of the grand vizier that built it, Si Moussa, a slave that rose to wealth and power. The palace, which has a certain vulgarity about it to modern eyes, was intended to display the Moroccan Islamic style of the time.

The Majorelle Gardens are beautiful throwbacks from the French colonial period. Designed in 1924, the buildings and decorations around the gardens are a deep cobalt blue which contrasts perfectly with the calmness of nature. The gardens also contain the Islamic Art Museum, which has an extensive collection of jewellery, ceramics, textiles and carpets, and 15 species of bird found only in that part of Africa. It is the sort of place you can go to escape the demanding and hectic atmosphere of the city, with its calming fountains, and network of intertwining paths and water features. This trip back to the Colonial period completes my (deficient) journey through Marrakech’s history.

And there we have Marrakech, a place alive with history, culture and day to day Moroccan life.

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This interesting link describes 36 hours in Marrakech.
This interesting link is a guide to Marrakech.
This interesting link describes Marrakech as a travel wonder.
This interesting link is about the Majorelle Gardens.
This interesting link takes you to Lonely Planet Marrakech.

Trapped in Morocco

I'll be honest, the reason I haven't published for a while is that I'm stuck. Ok, there are a few more posts to publish about Morocco but then what?

I had always planned for my next port of call be Algeria and then south to west Africa. But it occurred to me that transport links might not be the best across the Sahara desert, so I checked it out. Turns out that even if there was a regular bus service it would have to stop at the border because it's completely closed. You can get into Algeria but it would involve going back to Spain and crossing from there. And that doesn't solve the problem of there being a great big desert in the way. I've pretty much ruled this out now and I'm planning a short trip to eastern Algeria on my way back north.

I could continue south in Morocco, following the route of the Dakar rally to Senegal through the disputed region of Western Sahara. Unfortunately there is no public transport so I would have to rely completely on hitching. It would also involve crossing more west African borders than I would like. My sense of adventure is well and truly alive but so is my common sense. There is nothing about this plan that sounds easy or safe. The distances involved huge and there's no guarantee I would be able to get to my destination. It doesn't excite me, it scares me and I think that's where I draw my line.

Now-husband suggested I get a ferry to the Canaries then on to somewhere further south. A trip via the Canaries would suit me very well but there doesn't seem to be a ferry from Morocco, let alone anywhere else in west Africa.

So what do I do? Should I give in and look up flights from Morocco to Gabon?

Bolton Abbey

The Yorkshire countryside in June can only be described using various adjectives of the colour green. The lush green of the well managed pasture, the dappled green of the sunlight as it hit the woodland floor after passing though the leaves of young beech trees. The dark, moody green of the canopy, contrasting against the bright blue of the sky. The greens are dulled by summer rain and brightened by sunshine in the predictably changeable weather.

My walk around Bolton Abbey had all these greens and many more. It was a pleasant, gentle walk along the dark ribbon of water that runs through the sea of green. Every corner seemed to hold a surprise. The lucky log, studded with coins, the masks made by school children and hung on the trees, an unusual mother duck and her grown up ducklings. Stepping stones, rare-breed cows, the aqueduct.

I clearly wasn’t the first to discover these surprises. Bolton Abbey is a popular tourist attraction with families, fishermen and walkers alike. Strategic car parks and wide wheelchair friendly paths are excellent for those that struggle to access most of the British countryside, but for the rest of us it takes away from the sense of adventure slightly.

But I cannot begrudge them this beautiful piece of rural Britain. Really I am glad so many can share it.

The Plan (Days 112-114) - Casablanca

Rick Steves describes Casablanca as a ‘great movie, dull city’. This amused me but it doesn’t bode well for my visit to the city. I must admit I’ve never seen the film; it’s something I’ll have to do before I get there so I can form some preconceptions and then have them dashed.
Casablanca is the largest city in Morocco and with the quickest tempo. It is the only city in Morocco that I’ve read has an eventful nightlife, including clubs and an American travellers’ hangout in Rick’s café. Other than that, the sights are the usual Moroccan mix of Mosques and souks. The appeal of Casablanca is almost entirely in its almost mythical name.

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This interesting link is an article about Casablanca's attractions.
This interesting link takes you to Lonely Planet Casablanca.

Cardiff

When I was first writing about Wales for The Plan I completely dismissed Cardiff as somewhere to visit because I just couldn’t think of a reason to go there. I later retracted that and declared that I would go to Cardiff and experience what it has to offer. This post will present the results of my subsequent investigations into Cardiff.

Cardiff offers the usual parade of museums and galleries, castles and parks. I shall be interested to see how these hold up against its more popular competitors in the English and Scottish capitals. The National Museum and Gallery has the advantage of being free (like all national museums in England and Wales), and also offers an intriguing range of exhibits. Roath Park may sound like any other park but in my experience city parks always have an interesting history, and I look forward to discovering it. Cardiff Castle also has a long history waiting to be uncovered by a (not-so) intrepid tourist.

Cardiff styles itself very much as a modern city. The extensive redevelopment of the Cardiff Bay area is testament to this. The area turns up on TV fairly frequently so I know it looks shiny and modern, if a little soulless. Various amusements and attractions can be found in the area including galleries and art spaces. Cardiff’s nightlife is also centred here.

The Millennium Stadium offers regular tours. I’ve never been a tour person though, so I’d rather experience the magnitude of one of the biggest and best stadiums in the UK by attending an event than by being shown around an empty shell. Nothing beats real atmosphere.
NOTE: This article unintentionally belittles the Millennium Stadium by calling it ‘Wales’s largest sporting venue’. Now I’m no expert on Wales but I’m guessing that to be the largest in Wales you generally don’t have to be very big!

I inadvertently dismissed the Museum of Welsh Life off hand in my previous post. I really shouldn’t have done because it sounds amazing. It is situated outside Cardiff in 100 acres of parkland and entry is free. The best thing is the exhibits are reconstructions of actual Welsh buildings from history. I seriously love things like this, where you can just immerse yourself in history at your own pace. They are always accompanied by people demonstrating crafts and skills from times gone by and maybe some dress-up fun as well.

Having just exposed myself as a history geek (to add to travel, wildlife and Shakespeare), it’s time for me to pack my bags for Cardiff! If only…


This interesting link lists things to do in Cardiff.
This interesting link is about the Museum of Welsh Life.

Blogging Croatia

I'm in Croatia, how exciting! I was planning to use this as a test for blogging on the road but to be honest not that much has really happened. But here's some observations:

1. Croatians are really friendly, even when you have no linguistic skills in their language at all
2. Croatia is beautiful.
3. Croatia has no beaches at all. At least none north of Zadar. We travelled up most of the coast and we're now about as north as you can get.

One amusing incident happened as we landed. My Now-Husband is an inexperienced flyer and it shows sometimes. It was the type of landing that when the plane stops and your lives are no longer in danger all the passengers applauded the captain. Just as we'd bumped along onto the ground and while we were still speeding along faster than I have ever travelled on the ground before my husband turns to me and says, 'I love landings'.

The Plan (Days 110-112) - Rabat

Another city not often on tourist itineraries is Morocco’s current capital, Rabat. A visit to the most modern city in Morocco will undoubtedly be welcome after the craziness of the Fes medina. And because the city lacks any sights of note and as such also lacks the persistent following that tourists draw. The attraction that sounds most intriguing is the Chullah, an abandoned city. While I think I could very easily pass the time here, there is nothing that will hold my interest for long.

Rabat is worth a visit because it’s where the ville nouveau really does meet the medina head on. Nowhere else in Morocco will you see such European modernity the crumbling ruins of a Middle Ages city side by side. However, for me the most interesting thing will be to compare this city to the rest of Morocco. I want to know whether it still retains the soul and culture, so often lost in modern capitals.

To be Continued...
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This interesting link takes you to Lonely Planet Rabat.

The Plan (Days 108-110) - Meknes

Meknes is usually missed out by tourists, the medina is not as exciting as the one in nearby Fes and there are few hotels or restaurants of note. It’s a compact city, and it can easily be done as a day trip from one of its more charismatic neighbours. I’m visiting Meknes because it was an Imperial city for a brief period (1672-1727 under Sultan Moucay Ismail). During this golden age it developed into a grand Moorish city and it is now a UNESCO site.

This article suggests five things that you must do with your day in Meknes. Starting the day with a stroll around the Ville Nouveau and perhaps a pastry in a small café you then stop off at a Hammam. When you are clean it is time to head to the older part of town and visit the Dar Jamai Museum of Moroccan Art in Place Hedim. Next is a brief look round the Medina (easy after the madness of Fes), where most of the sites are centred. Finally head to Heri Es-Souani for some history in relaxing surroundings.

Despite warnings that Meknes is dull after dark I would like to stay at least one night because there is enough to do to fill an entire day and because I would like to take a day trip to Volubilis, some notable Roman ruins.

So far this all sounds fine but not exciting; it could be any generic Moroccan city. I need to know what makes Meknes stand out from the crowd. It certainly doesn’t have the same tourist appeal that Fes and Marrakech have. Nor does is it in close proximity to the Sahara or the Atlas Mountains. Its grand history does make it an aesthetically pleasing city, and its compact size makes it more manageable. The lack of tourists also makes it an appealing prospect. I will be interested to find out whether these ‘off the beaten track’ cities in Morocco are worth making time for.

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This interesting link will take you to Lonely Planet Meknes.